Fishermen’s Trail Portugal – Odeceixe to Sagres

In Spring 2025, I walked the 226km of the Fishermen’s Trail in Portugal during one continuous journey, on my own. For this second part, I’d like to share my experiences walking the next 5 days on the Fishermen’s Trail from Odeceixe to Sagres. On the way, I passed Aljezur, Arrifana, Carrapateira, and Vila do Bispo to reach Sagres in the end.

This blog is about the second 5 walking stages, and I’d like to share my own experiences, practical tips, and inspire you to explore Fishermen’s trail from Odeceixe to Sagres in Portugal on your own.

If you like to read about the stages from Porto Covo to Odeceixe or Sagres to Lagos, check the different posts. Check out the whole category of Fishermen’s Trail posts here.

Note about the blog: I paid for everything in full myself. I was not paid or sponsored. All my opinions and experiences are my own.

Probe around the Globe does use affiliate links. If you decide to follow one of my links and make a purchase, I’ll earn a small commission. This is at no extra cost to you.

What is the Fishermen’s Trail from Odeceixe to Sagres?

The Fishermen’s Trail is a continuous, coastal hiking trail in the Southwest of Portugal. It connects the regions, the Alentejo region and the Algarve together. It is called Trilha dos Pescadores in Portuguese.

The trail is managed by the Rota Vicentina organisation. The Rota Vicentina has several trails in Portugal, like the Historical Way, a cultural, immersive hiking trail located inland. And of course, the coastal route, called the Fishermen’s Trail. Sometimes these routes overlap, intertwine, and run parallel.

On this page, I only discuss the Coastal Fishermen’s Trail from Odeceixe to Sagres and my experiences hiking this path.

Fishermen’s Trail Day 6: Odeceixe to Aljezur (22.6 km)

Today I have an early start. But it is very cold outside and grey and overcast. I make my way out of the village of Odeceixe and walk along the road towards Odeceixe beach. It is roughly 3.5 km, and I understand why some people skip the town of Odeceixe here. This is only possible at low tide and even then can be tricky, so be safe!

It’s a grey day, pretty uneventful. The crowds have thinned out, or I’m ahead of the hiker pack, because I hardly see any other hikers in the morning. There is a small detour inland, along the road, because the coastline is too eroded. Then I continue for a small section of coastal walking, before we head inland again, to Rogil.

Town of Rogil

The trail says goodbye to the coast for a bit, and we continue walking to a sparse forest, along farmtracks and empty roads. It is not very inspiring, but the town of Rogil beckons me. I stop at the first place I come across, it is the ‘museum’ of sweet potato, and I indulge in not one, but two pastel de nata! I eat them outside in a lazy chair on the lawn, which was a huge mistake because something bit me multiple times in my leg. The days after, it kept itching, swelling, and turning red.

After this break, I continue through Rogil. It is an unattractive village in my opinion, and I’m glad to be back in nature again. From here, the green/blue markings of the Fishermen’s trail subside, and I follow the red/yellow of the Historian Way. Either way, it’ll bring me to Aljezur.

I walk this section together with another hiker, and I’m happy with the distraction. We walk along dirt roads and farm tracks, and besides guessing what village we see in the distance, there is not much to see.

At a campsite, we part ways, as I’ll try to find a toilet option and she’ll continue walking. After the campsite, the path makes a long descent, and I end up at the river. I follow it into town, cross it to the other side of Aljezur, and check into my hotel. Made it through another day, but it was a tough one.

I stay at the Vicentina Hotel in Aljezur. It’s a typical hotel, nothing special, and a little bit off the trail in Aljezur. The popular alternative is the Amazigh Hostel & Suites.

Stats day 6: Odeceixe to Aljezur

Distance: 22.6 km – 14 miles
Terrain: coastal paths, road walking, dirt tracks, and farm tracks
Weather: cloudy and overcast all day
Challenges: It’s classified as a difficult day, but the terrain is easy to navigate. It is just a long (and a bit boring) day.
Altitude: 185m up, 198m down
Steps all day: 39.863 steps
Calories burnt all day: 4.478 cal
Kilometers all day: 28.53 km
Sleep: 7h 21min
Accommodation: Vicentina Hotel in Aljezur

Fishermen’s Trail Day 7: Aljezur to Arrifana (17.1 km)

When I wake up, I can feel the previous kilometers in my legs. All stiff and not cooperating. I head out of town early in the morning. It is sunny again, but chilly. I immediately have to climb some steep hills behind Aljezur, and I work up quite a sweat.

But the morning is lovely. I’m all alone, nature is awaking, and the wildflowers are dancing in the wind. The trail crosses an abandoned or still-to-be-built apartment complex, and once at the top, I have sweeping views across the area. I can see the sea, the road in between, and the hills surrounding Aljezur.

The next section is brutal. The wind has shifted and is now blowing from the north west. Exactly the direction I’m heading in, along a main road. It is not nice walking, I’m freezing, and I feel an icy chill running down my back.

Finally, I reach the village or settlement, and I’m delighted to be back on the sandy trails, with its succulent flowers and sea breeze. The trail looks down on the Aljezur river that flows to the sea, and the sight is absolutely stunning. I can’t wait to be near the beach because I hope to find some relief in a toilet break and somewhere to sit and relax, away from the wind.

Praia de Monte Clérigo

Unfortunately, the restaurant by the sea is closed. I’m so cold and tired from walking that stretch, I have to take a break. I put on my sweater and cover my legs with my jacket, and have a snack. Brrrr. I’m so cold.

After a while, I continue walking. The path goes out to the cliff, and back in again, which seems a bit excessive, but I follow the trail, so there I go. After the next bend, I look down on another gorgeous sandy beach: Praia de Monte Clérigo.

It’s busy with daytrippers, hikers, holiday makers, and a wedding party. Kites fly high in the strong wind. A couple batters the wind, clinging to each other tightly. A brave family dips their toes into the water and runs back to the beach.

There are public toilets, which are more than welcome. There are enough bars and restaurants, but I just took a break, so I continue. Back on the coastal path. Exposed on the cliffs, high above the sea.

Ponta da Atalaia

The wind has shifted and now blows in my rear again. Immediately, the feeling temperature is much better, and I continue walking. The goal is the ruins of Atalaia in the distance. Edged on the tip of the cliffs are some old ruins, and I can see them from afar.

Once there, I keep going, because I don’t see any good spot to rest. Everything is so exposed and windy, I need to keep moving in order not to cool off too much. I follow the path for a while along a sandy path through some sort of forest area. The wind falls away completely here, and it gets warm all of a sudden!

I veer away from the path as I have a hotel nearby. I’m staying 2 nights at Hotel Vale Da Telha in Aljezur/Arrifana. It is off-trail, about 2 km from Arrifana beach. It has a great breakfast, a swimming pool, and big rooms.

Stats day 7: Aljezur to Arrifana

Distance: 17.1 km – 10.6 miles
Terrain: coastal paths, and a lot of road walking
Weather: cloudy and a cold wind. In the afternoon, the wind falls down and the sun comes out
Challenges: being cold and not finding a good spot to rest when I really need it.
Altitude: 223m up, 178m down
Steps all day: 32.246 steps
Calories burnt all day: 4.143 cal
Kilometers all day: 22.13 km
Sleep: 7h 54min
Accommodation: Hotel Vale Da Telha in Aljezur/Arrifana

Rest day at Vale Da Telha

There is really nothing to do in this hamlet, besides heading to Arrifana beach or staying at the hotel. I go to the supermarket, have lunch, relax, and take a dip in the pool. It is a nice place to relax, but there is really nothing to do, as I’m too lazy to walk all the way to Arrifana beach.

But it is nice to sleep in a little bit for a day, and just go back to bed and have a lazy day.

Fishermen’s Trail Day 8: Arrifana to Carrapateira (19.4 km)

A weird day that I’ll not soon forget. I leave the hotel and follow the main road towards Carrapateira beach. Here, I pick up the Fishermen’s Trail again. We follow a road a bit, and then veer off towards the coast again. Now, I follow the white/red markings.

The path is wide and a combination of sand and gravel. I can see for miles and miles. A fierce wind is blowing dust and sand up in my eyes and hair. Luckily, the wind comes from behind, but it is fierce.

I follow the red sand road, along an eucalyptus forest. The thin trees and branches wave in the sky, and the sound intensifies with each exhale of the storm that is coming closer. The branches don’t sway gently in the sky, but are being swept forcefully from side to side. The smell is amazing, and it feels almost like a koala can pop out any minute.

Monte Novo

The route goes inland quite a bit, through the eucalyptus forest and farms and fields. I stop at a small snack bar/restaurant in the middle of nowhere. I can sit sheltered from the wind, and it feels great. My whole skin is tingly from the constant wind impact. I have a nice break, but I notice something is off for the first time.

There is no light, and the bar staff informs me about a power outage. I check my phone, but I don’t have any reception here. That’s ok, so I keep walking. Finally, I’m back on the coast again, and I can see the sea in the distance.

The wind is blowing from the side, and as I walk the rocky cliffs, I have trouble keeping my footing. The wind is trying to blow me over, and is almost succeeding. It is tough walking, and I feel very unstable, as if my feet can be blown away from underneath me any moment now.

Praia de Carrapateira

I figured, once I reached Carrapateira, the day would be done. Unfortunately, that is far from the truth. I descend to the beach, and I really need a break. I sit in between the sand dunes, trying to shelter myself from the sand, but the wind is coming from all angles here, and soon I’m gritting sand and getting exfoliated.

I continue along the beach. It is gorgeous. Such a wide expanse of sand, the waves are being blown back, which gives a weird foam experience. More sand is whirling around me. The path crosses a stream here, and I have to hurry as the tide is rising.

Crossing the Carrapateira River

I have some trouble finding the best spot to cross. It takes some time to get my socks and shoes off, and the water has risen quickly. I enter the water and almost scream. It is so freaking cold. And rushing faster than I thought it would be. I try to make it across as quickly as possible, but the blood vessels in my feet are tightening up, and I can barely stand on my feet.

I climb out of the water and take forever to rub my feet warm and dry again. The next section is along a narrow, a bit dodgy part of the path. And why, because there is a perfectly fine dirt road above. I continue towards the car park, and think: I made it, but it is still a few km to the town of Carrapateira.

In the end, I’m not sure if you have to make the river crossing. Halfway along the beach is a boardwalk, and I think this brings you, just as quickly and a lot easier, away from the beach, to the main road, and across the river.

Nation-wide power outage on the Iberian Peninsula (Spain + Portugal)

When I arrive in Carrapateira, I’m really done with the day. My teeth are grinding on the sand in my mouth. My skin is dry and dirty. My skin is coarse and sticky at the same time, and my hair resembles a ball of twine.

At the guesthouse, there is a key and a flashlight. There is no power, and I cross my fingers that I can have a hot shower. I guess they have a gas-powered boiler, because I can take a hot shower. At the local store, they only let in 2 people at the same time. I can only pay in cash, and the store is dark. At night, I have a candlelight dinner, and I go to bed early as I want to save the battery of my phone.

No internet, no electricity, and no connection. It feels outworldly as the wind is howling around my guesthouse. Somewhere around 3 am, I wake up because the streetlights are flipped on again. I quickly charge all my batteries and go back to sleep.

It turned out, there was a nationwide power blackout in the whole Iberian peninsula, affecting Spain and Portugal, and some parts of France.

Stats day 8: Arrifana to Carrapateira

Distance: 19.4 km – 12 miles
Terrain: coastal paths, some road walking, dirt and gravel road, beach + river crossing
Weather: sunny but very fierce winds
Challenges: not being blown off the cliffs with the strong wind, crossing the river and being in a nationwide power outage
Altitude: 277m up, 198m down
Steps all day: 35.677 steps
Calories burnt all day: 4.797 cal
Kilometers all day: 24.74 km
Sleep: 7h 9min
Accommodation: Carrapateira Lodge in Carrapateira.

Fishermen’s Trail Day 9: Carrapateira to Vila do Bispo (15.3 km)

This was by far my least favorite day. But I spoke to other people, and they thought it was the best day yet! How experience can differ, right? I leave Carrapateira the next morning. It’s grey and overcast, but a lot less windy.

I walk back to the coast again, and it starts to rain, but also stops right away. I follow the yellow/red/green/blue markings, and they lead me up a small cliff. The path is heavily eroded and very small, and it takes a bit too much energy to navigate it. All the while, I see a perfect stretch of beach below me, and feel that it would have been so much easier to walk along that.

I climb up from the beach, and it is steep walking. Huffing and panting, I climb higher and higher. I can see a mountain range in the far distance on my left, and slowly, the route winds itself up along the cliffs.

Praia de Pena Furada

The route navigates me along rocky cliffs, and a few times, I look into the deep, and my heart sinks. The path is so close to the edge, and everything is so exposed. It didn’t bother me before, on small, narrow paths with the rock face disappearing below me. But here, so high up, with just a sheer drop view in front of me, I get the jitters.

And then it begins, the long descent into Praia de Pena Furada. It’s rocky and filled with gravel and crevices from the rain. I need full concentration to keep agile, mobile, and relaxed. Everything in me wants to cramp up, and I feel my grip on my walking sticks tightening. I cannot see the bottom of the descent, and it terrifies me.

For a good hour, I do nothing more than focus and slowly, small steps at a time, descend. I repeat my mantra: I can do this, stay relaxed, you’re doing it, just keep going, slow but steady, I can do this.

Once at the bottom, all the tension releases, and I want to sit down and cry. It is a gorgeous beach, but the idea of having to climb out again on the other side keeps me going.

Towards Vila do Bispo

I keep going, up on the other side. Climbing. It is brutal. I feel my pack is pulling me down, the steps are steep, and I use all 4 to pull myself up. Almost at the top, I take a break and look down. I have vertigo shivers here from looking into the deep. Ugh, what a brutal climb.

2 hours or so later, I finally made it across. First down and then up again. I keep walking. Along rural farmtracks and gravel roads. Vila do Bispo is not coming any closer, and I can barely move myself forward. I take another break underneath a tree as the sun is out and it is boiling hot again.

It takes forever to reach Vila do Bispo. I’m done, spent, pooped. I’m staying at Lilas’ Private Accommodation in Vila do Bispo. It is a private apartment with private rooms with private or shared bathrooms. It has a shared kitchen + living and a washing machine. I make full use of everything. A steak dinner at the nearest place I can find serves me well. What a day!

Stats day 9: Carrapateira to Vila do Bispo

Distance: 15.3 km – 9.5 miles (but it felt twice the distance to me)
Terrain: coastal paths, some road walking, dirt, and gravel roads
Weather: cloudy and chilly in the morning, but sunny and warm in the afternoon
Challenges: ugh, that brutal descent and climb at Praia de Pena Furada
Altitude: 302m up, 232m down
Steps all day: 27.730 steps
Calories burnt all day: 4.179 cal
Kilometers all day: 23.42 km
Sleep: 7h 23min
Accommodation: Lilas’ Private Accommodation

Fishermen’s Trail Day 10: Vila do Bispo to Sagres (20.2 km)

I’m getting more and more tired every day, and I feel I’m not recovering well enough overnight. I’m a bit anxious about today, but also happy, because I’ll have another rest day in Sagres.

Lucky for me, the first kilometers out of Vila do Bispo are easy walking. Along wide farm tracks, with sweeping views of this tip of Portugal. I can see Sagres ahead of me. It will be a few km down the road, but we’ll walk west first: to Cabo São Vicente, the edge of the world.

It’s good to be back on the coast again. The succulents are a familiar and welcoming sight. They are accompanied by low scrubs in bloom, a colorful sight. The path goes down a few rocky, steep descents before climbing back up again. Although I don’t particularly like this up-and-down climbing, the views at the top are absolutely striking. You see the waves crashing on the rocks, hidden pristine sandy beaches below, and most of the time, you’re completely alone in nature, enjoying the view and the elements.

Lighthouse at Cabo de São Vicente

The path crosses a massive boulder field. It is tough walking. At first, I try to place my feet in between the rocks, but that is a sure recipe for a twisted ankle. I move my tactics to walking on top of the boulders and rocks, jumping from one big one to another, trying not to slip off. It goes on and on and on, but finally, I reach the road.

Here, it’s done with the peace and quiet. The road brings tourists on bikes and in caravans and motorhomes, and in rental cars. Food trucks line the road. It feels like I’m being teletransported to an active carnival or something. I take my time. I feel accomplished, but I also need to block out the noise and the other people.

After some pictures, I continue walking. First along the road, past a restaurant where I can finally use the toilet (relief!!) and onwards. The path meanders through the rocks, out ot sea, back to the road. As I’m very tired, I decide to stay on the road. They are really adjacent, and it is now my preference to walk on easy pavement.

Reaching Sagres on the Fishermen’s Trail

Some clouds roll in, and a few spats of rain try to chase away the heat, but nothing major. I continue walking, and then I reach Sagres! I’m relieved, I’ve come a long way, and I’m happy to take a bit of rest tomorrow!

I’m staying at the Tonel Apartamentos Turisticos in Sagres. It is right on the trail, at the beginning of Sagres (coming from the north/west). It has private rooms or apartments. They also have a swimming pool. There is nothing wrong with it, but I think you can do better.

Stats day 10: Vila do Bispo to Sagres

Distance: 20.2 km – 12.5 miles
Terrain: gravel roads, coastal walking, boulder field, and pavement
Weather: sunny in the morning, cloudy in the afternoon
Challenges: seeing Sagres in the distance and knowing it will be a long detour – and the boulder field
Altitude: 114m up, 179m down
Steps all day: 31.788 steps
Calories burnt all day: 4.363 cal
Kilometers all day: 27.51 km
Sleep: 7h 05min
Accommodation: Tonel Apartamentos Turisticos

Fishermen’s Trail: Odeceixe to Sagres in 5 or 6 days

This part of the Fishermen’s Trail from Odeceixe to Sagres can be easily done in 5 days. I took an extra rest day, but if you just walk these 5 stages, that is really not necessary.

I loved how the coastline changed compared to the northern part of the Fishermen’s Trail. Less all sand stages, but more diverse farm tracks, coastal paths, and some rural sections. In this part of the path, the Historian Way and the Fishermen’s Trail sometimes mix and intertwine.

Practical tips for hiking these stages from Odeceixe to Sagres

In this section of the Fishermen’s Trail, there is more flexibility when it comes to the stages and their length. There are more villages in between, sometimes to trail cuts inland, and there are other options for accommodation or transport.

It was less busy with hikers, but at the trailhead, near popular beaches, and in towns, more tourists popped up. Notably, in Cabo de São Vicente, it can feel like a carnival.

Bring plenty of water, as refills are hard to find. Check the opening hours of restaurants along the way if you rely on them for lunch and/or drinks.

Bring toilet paper/tissues, as a toilet break in nature is inevitable, but make sure to pack everything out. Check the Leave No Trace Principles here.

Get to the start: From Odeceixe, you can take Rede-Expressos buses to Porto Covo or to Lisbon. Going further south to Lagos (and then a local bus to Sagres) is also an option.

Do you want to read more? Check out my posts about the first 5 hiking stages from Praia de São Torpes via Porto Covo to Odeceixe, and the final stages from Sagres to Lagos here. Looking for all posts on the Fishermen’s Trail, click here.

Let me know if you have any specific questions or need help planning your own trip. If you thought this post was helpful or fun to read, let me know in the comment section below. Or share it with your friends or on social media! And make sure to come back for more travel stories next time.