Fishermen’s Trail Portugal – Porto Covo to Odeceixe

In Spring 2025, I walked the 226km of the Fishermen’s Trail in Portugal during one continuous journey, on my own. For this first part, I’d like to share my experiences on the first 5 days, walking from North to South. From my start in Praia do São Torpes (Sines) and Porto Covo to Odeceixe. On the way, I passed Porto Covo, Vila Nova de Milfontes, Almograve, Zambujeiro do Mar, to reach Odeceixe in the end.

This blog is about the first 5 walking stages, and I’d like to share my own experiences, practical tips, and inspire you to explore Fishermen’s Trail from Porto Covo to Odeceixe in Portugal on your own.

If you like to read about the stages from Odeceixe to Sagres or Sagres to Lagos, check the different posts. Check out the whole category of Fishermen’s Trail posts here.

Note about the blog: I paid for everything in full myself. I was not paid or sponsored. All my opinions and experiences are my own.

Probe around the Globe does use affiliate links. If you decide to follow one of my links and make a purchase, I’ll earn a small commission. This is at no extra cost to you.

What is the Fishermen’s Trail from Porto Covo to Odeceixe?

The Fishermen’s Trail is a continuous, coastal hiking trail in the Southwest of Portugal. It connects the regions, the Alentejo region and the Algarve. It is called Trilha dos Pescadores in Portuguese.

The Rota Vicentina organisation manages the trail. The Rota Vicentina has several trails in Portugal, like the Historical Way, a cultural, immersive hiking trail located inland. And of course, the coastal route, called the Fishermen’s Trail. Sometimes these routes overlap, intertwine, and run parallel.

On this page, I only discuss the Coastal Fishermen’s Trail from Porto Covo to Odeceixe and my experiences hiking this path.

Fishermen’s Trail Day 0: Getting to Lisbon, Portugal

The day has finally arrived! I’m heading to Lisbon, Portugal, today. My flight is in the afternoon, so I have a relaxed start to the day. One final check and off I go.

The flight is pretty uneventful, and soon I land in Lisbon. The last time I was here, it was raining cats & dogs, so I’m happy to see some patches of blue sky. I make my way to the subway area to take the metro to my guesthouse in town. I picked one that was sort of midway between the airport and the 2 bus stations.

I head out to dinner at a local Mexican place and stuff my face with tacos. Yummy. A bit nervous, I head to bed. Tomorrow, the bus leaves early, and I want to be 100% sure that I’ll be there on time.

Fishermen’s Trail Day 1: From Lisbon to Sines and walking to Porto Covo

I wake up way too early, with a knot in my stomach. I’m so excited! I pack everything and make my way to the metro station to find the bus station. There are 2 major bus stations in Lisbon that service the start of the Fishermen’s Trail.

• Sete Rios Bus Station, Lisboa (west part of town)
• Lisboa Oriente Bus Station (east part of town, closer to the airport)

There are buses from Rede Expressos that service Lisbon and Sines/Porto Covo and further down the coast. As I want to start at Praia do São Torpes (near Sines), I picked a direct bus from Lisbon that stops in Sines. There is only one bus today, and it leaves from Lisboa Oriente.

Sete Rios has more daily buses, either direct or with a transfer, that head to Porto Covo. Keep this in mind if you’re planning your own trip.

But I head back to Lisboa Oriente, and of course, I’m way too early. It’s the Easter weekend, and it is very busy at the bus station. A lot of people gather around where the bus is scheduled to arrive. I spot other foreigners with backpacks and walking shoes, so I know I’m not the only one!

I have a front row seat on the left side of the bus, right behind the bus driver, and this gives an amazing view as we leave Lisbon via the bridge! The trip takes a little over 2 hours, and we have rain and sunshine on the way. I sure hope it will be dry once I need to start walking!

First stage from Sines/ Praia do São Torpes to Porto Covo (10.2 km)

At Sines, I get off the bus. I’m not the only one; a German girl also disembarks. Judging from the backpack and hiking shoes, she’s doing the Fishermen’s Trail too. I ask her if she wants to share a taxi to Praia do São Torpes. We connect because we both need to pee, eat something, and get our bearings.

In the nearest cafe, we have a grilled cheese sandwich and make a plan. We have the Bolt app and the Uber app, and both are serviced in this area. In the end, we find a ride and pay less than €9 for it. As we share it, it is a good deal for the ride along the harbour and industry that is Sines.

Sines has a charming center, but on the outskirts are some major industrialized areas. Not fun or safe to walk around, so it is best to take a ride to the beach where the Fishermen’s Trail has its official start.

Walking from Praia do São Torpes to Porto Covo

The first stage is a short one. Only 10.2 km (6.3 miles) and is very straightforward. Just keep the coast on your right side and keep heading south. I can do that.

Together we set out. It is very windy, but the views ahead of us our absolutely striking. I can hardly believe it! I’m here. I have been thinking about this hike for a long time and preparing for it for a couple of months. And now I’m here. I feel immense gratitude and appreciation for the beauty that is this rough coastline.

We walk on the road, below us are the beaches and the sea. The wind is very fierce, and the waves have big white foam heads as they crash on the smooth surface of the beach. The beaches are wide, smooth, and golden.

A break on such a short stage?

Halfway through, we take a break. We have basically all day to walk those 10 km, so we can take it easy. On the first stretch, we find numerous beach shacks, lunch restaurants, and places to sit. We take advantage of them.

In the last half, the trail changes slightly. No more restaurants, but we walk along the coast, on a sandy trail. It has rained the past couple of weeks, so the sand is not too loose, but nevertheless, we find it hard to walk in the sand.

Although it was only a 10km walk, it has been a long day, and I’m relieved to walk into Porto Covo. The first part is done, now the trail really starts!

I’m staying at the MUTE Hostel in Porto Covo. I have a 4-bed dorm room, breakfast is included, and it has a swimming pool. It is located right on the trail. Obviously, it is not really swimming pool weather, so I have some time to relax and get sorted.

Stats day 1: Praia do São Torpes to Porto Covo

Distance: 10.2 km – 6.3 miles
Terrain: some road walking, but we also encounter our first sandy trails
Weather: stormy and cold, but no rain during the hike
Challenges: nothing really, it is a short day.
Altitude: 23m up, 0m down
Steps all day: 23.676 steps
Calories burnt all day: 3.867 cal
Kilometers all day: 16.73 km
Sleep: 8h 9min
Accommodation: MUTE Hostel in Porto Covo

Fishermen’s Trail Day 2: Porto Covo to Vila Nova de Milfontes (19.6 km)

It has been a rough night. I’m not used to sleeping in dorm rooms anymore. I had a top bunk and had to visit the restrooms a few times during the night, and banged my knee pretty badly. The wind is howling around the building and the whole night, and I could hear a window clap in the wind.

Breakfast is ok, but rain is streaming down. Everyone in the hostel is anxiously checking the weather app; some people head out early in full waterproofs. I wait a little bit, but finally brave the weather too. There is a slight drizzle, but it is not too bad.

A whole stream of hikers is walking in the same direction. The first few kilometers (3.5km) are brutal, and they are kicking my butt. There is a very narrow, muddy path, and I sink into the mud to my ankles. Ugh. It takes forever, and my pace is ultra slow. Finally, I reach a beach with a view of an island.

At the nearby fort is a cafe, so I take full advantage of this opportunity to take a pee-break. I’m not the only one, and together with the other walkers, I head south again.

The most sandy stage of the Fishermen’s Trail

For the next kilometers, I walk on the trail, along the coast, in the dunes, and in the nature reserve behind it. The weather clears up, the sun comes out, and slowly, the beautiful nature unfolds its treasures. There are succulents everywhere, some with flowers or buds, but they are abundant. The pine cones release a nice smell as the sun warms them up, and I enjoy the stillness of this area.

It’s quite intense walking on the loose sand and sandy track. It is a long and tough day, without any options to replenish water or use a restroom. I’m happy to find ‘civilization’ again, about 3 km before Vila Nova de Milfontes. At the local bar, it’s busy with tired hikers, taking a break.

The last 3 km into town are easy walking. I have a lovely guesthouse, right in the middle of Vila Nova de Milfontes. I stay at BLUE GUIDE Milfontes in Vila Nova de Milfontes. It offers a private room with a large double bed and an ensuite bathroom. It’s super central in the village, and they offer a lovely breakfast in the morning.

Stats day 2: Porto Covo to Vila Nova de Milfontes

Distance: 19.6 km – 12.2 miles
Terrain: almost 100% sandy tracks, dunes, beaches, and sand sand sand
Weather: starts cold, rainy, and windy, but later on the sun comes out, and it is beautiful
Challenges: all the sand! And no restroom besides 3km from Porto Covo and 3km before Vila Nova de Milfontes. No supermarket is open on Sunday afternoon.
Altitude: 76m up, 71m down
Steps all day: 38.248 steps
Calories burnt all day: 5.122 cal
Kilometers all day: 24.54 km
Sleep: 7h 45min
Accommodation: BLUE GUIDE Milfontes

Fishermen’s Trail Day 3: Vila Nova de Milfontes to Almograve (14.7 km)

I bought a ticket for the boat at my guesthouse, and I walked to the docks in the morning. You can take the bridge, but I have decided that ‘fun’ things like boat crossing across the estuary are perfectly acceptable. It saved me about 4.5 km of road walking, so this day turned out to be a lot shorter than I thought.

And that’s very welcome, because yesterday was a tough day. All my leg muscles hurt and twitch, so an easier day is more than welcome.

It is beautiful hiking, the sun is out, and the views of the coast are phenomenal! Dramatic cliffs, abundant succulents, crashing waves, and small sandy paths. Some of the cliff’s paths are overgrown by shrubs and short trees, so sometimes I have to duck or wade my way through the shrubs. The path is well maintained, but I can’t help but catch my pack on a few sharp branches here and there.

At the end of the day, it becomes a bit cloudy and colder, but I still arrive early in town. I have a nice guesthouse with a washing machine, and I take advantage of that and pop in my dirty clothes.

I stay at the Refúgio do Almograve in Almograve. It’s a private house with a double bedroom with a shared bathroom (1 other room) and a kitchen. It’s free to do laundry. Almograve has few options for staying, so I’d book ahead of time if you don’t want any surprises at the end of the day.

Stats day 3: Vila Nova de Milfontes to Almograve

Distance: 14.7 km – 9.1 miles (roughly 4.5 km less if you take the ferry)
Terrain: a lot of sandy paths, some farm tracks
Weather: sunny and nice, later on a bit cloudy
Challenges: walking this distance after yesterday’s brutal day and finding a place to eat that wasn’t full. I ended up with a bad takeaway pizza
Altitude: 75m up, 80m down
Steps all day: 24.568 steps
Calories burnt all day: 3.932 cal
Kilometers all day: 15.04 km
Sleep: 7h 27min
Accommodation: Refúgio do Almograve

Fishermen’s Trail Day 4: Almograve to Zambujeira do Mar (21.5 km)

I leave my guesthouse on this sunny morning and head straight to the beach. There is a whole exodus of bright colored hikers from all nations, heading in the same direction. The path takes us around a fitness course, and I feel the equipment is mocking me for not exercising enough. Ha!

The sky is bright and blue, and it seems the coastline appears even brighter and more blue today. I see the first nests of storks on the cliffs below, and it is beautiful to see those animals soaring in the sky and landing on their nests, on the crevices of the pointy rocks on the cliffs.

It’s hot today, and the deep, Mars-like sand is not helping me move forward. The earth is red here, and the sand is very loose. It is gorgeous, but also brutal walking. I step, I sink, I step, I sink. It is a trick to keep walking at a steady pace with small steps and keep the momentum going.

The coastline is so stunning. Dramatic peaks, edgy cliffs, sheer rock faces, out to sea and back inland again. The foamy sea wraps itself around every outcrop it can find. Stunning.

Halfway stop: Cavaleiro

The lighthouse of Cabo Sardão (Farol Cabo Sardão) comes into view, and that means I’m not too far away from the village of Cavaleiro, which makes for a perfect mid-way break. I have a Coke and a pastel de nata (yummy) and refill my water here. A toilet visit and I’m good to go again.

I stroll around the lighthouse and continue on the trail. It has been a warm, long day, and I’m ready for it to be over, especially walking along wide gravel farm tracks in the sun. I’m happy with any slither of shade at this point, but the coastline is brutal and doesn’t provide much.

I descend into the harbor of Porto das Barcas, where the local fish restaurant is busy serving lunch. I continue up and along the road. This is easy walking, but I’m so focused on moving along that I miss the turn off for the Fishermen’s trail. I enter the town, instead of the final stretch along the coast and through a whole cliff of succulents.

When I notice, I’m too tired to head back. I just keep walking, find my guesthouse, and call it a day! I’m staying at Sunset Beach House in Zambujeiro do Mar. It is right on the trail, super close to the beach. I have a private bedroom, but it is a shared luxury house with 3 other rooms. I share the bathroom with one other room. The kitchen, living, and rooftop terrace are also shared.

Stats day 4: Almograve to Zambujeira do Mar

Distance: 21.5 km – 13.4 miles
Terrain: a lot of sandy paths, some farm tracks, some road walking
Weather: sunny and nice, and warm
Challenges: sandy paths right on the cliffs’ edges
Altitude: 162m up, 162m down
Steps all day: 36.451 steps
Calories burnt all day: 4.731 cal
Kilometers all day: 21.67 km
Sleep: 7h 53min
Accommodation: Sunset Beach House

Rest day in Zambujeira do Mar

Before I set out, I figured that Zambujeira do Mar is a great place to have a rest day. And it was. The village is very touristy, so it offers enough accommodation and restaurant options. It has beautiful, easily accessible beaches, and after 4 days of walking, I figured I needed a rest.

It was great to sleep in, laze around all day. I did go out and walk part of the trail that I’d missed the day before, and I must say: it is a great way to enter town! I also went to the beach, but I didn’t have an umbrella, so I was cooking within half an hour. The water was still way too cold at the end of April to swim, but some brave surfers caught some waves.

Fishermen’s Trail Day 5: Zambujeira do Mar to Odeceixe (18.7 km)

It felt a bit weird leaving this morning. The day before, I saw all the other hikers whom I had encountered for the past 4 days leave town. And I stayed behind. This morning, I was surrounded by a new group of new faces and new hikers.

The day starts bright and early and sunny. Within minutes, I’m working up a sweat, climbing the rocks outside Zambujeira. The path is rocky, and this section has a lot more altitude difference than the days before. After the first rocky cliffs with beach views, I went through a more forested area.

It is lovely to be in the shade, but some trees block the path. A limbo line forms quickly, as everyone needs to climb over or duck under the tree. Soon, the path opens back up again, and we’re back at the exposed cliffs. High above the secluded beaches, the jagged coastline becomes a true rollercoaster.

I go down a rocky path to climb back up on the other side. Ugh, I’m an avid hiker, but descending on rocky, gravelly underground will never be my favorite. It is tough going, and it’s not only the view that takes my breath away!

It’s warm today, and the wind is cooling me down. However, I’m conscious I need to hydrate as well, so every time I think: nice cool refreshing breeze, I take a sip of my water. But it is so warm and breezy, I soon run out of water. After some agricultural walking around massive greenhouses, I luckily reached the hamlet of Azenha do Mar.

Halfway break: Azenha do Mar

Here, one restaurant is open for lunch, and I’m very fortunate to be able to buy some water here. I had brought 2L of water, 0.7L of lemonade, and a can of Coke, but I had finished everything already. I rehydrate and take new, fresh water with me for the remainder of the day.

When I start hiking again, the path goes down a steep slope, then climbs back up again. Ugh, it takes a lot of leg muscle to do that, and my legs are trembling at the end of this part. I continue through the national park, which is stunning, but there is absolutely no shade. I seriously would like another rest, but it is just so open and exposed. Gorgeous but hard walking after such a long day.

One final long descent into the Odeceixe valley. The river is glistering below. The beach looks super inviting, and some people go down and cross here. It saves them from walking inland to Odeceixe and back. But I’m staying in Odeceixe, so I continue the final kilometers by road, in the scorching sun, till I reach my guesthouse in town.

I stay at Apartamentos Cavaco in Odexeice. It is a private apartment with a kitchen, on the trail in the center of the village. I have now left the Alentejo region, and the trail now continues into the Algarve region (the river is the border).

Stats day 5: Zambujeira do Mar to Odeceixe

Distance: 18.7 km – 11.6 miles
Terrain: sandy paths, cliff walking, some road walking, and farm tracks
Weather: very sunny, super hot
Challenges: steep descents and steep climbs, muddy tracks. Running out of water too soon
Altitude: 303m up, 352m down
Steps all day: 34.475 steps
Calories burnt all day: 4.984 cal
Kilometers all day: 19.99 km
Sleep: 9h 26min
Accommodation: Apartamentos Cavaco in Odexeice

Fishermen’s Trail: Porto Covo to Odeceixe in 4 or 5 days

If you start in Porto Covo, it should take you 4 days to reach Odeceixe. I started a bit earlier and took an extra rest day, which was nice. Looking back, I feel this part of the Fishermen’s Trail from Porto Covo to Odeceixe is the most rural, most rough, and most beautiful coastal area of the trail.

The views are epic, the path is easy to follow, hugging the coastline closely, going out to sea, back inland a bit, up and down along the coast. It offers sandy beaches, sandy tracks, endless succulents rooted in the dunes, tiny coastal hamlets with fresh fish with every meal, and a sweeping coastline.

You encounter rocks, dunes, and sheer vertical cliff walls with storks nesting on top of them. Small rock formations and tiny islands out to sea.

Practical tips for hiking the first stages from Porto Covo to Odeceixe

The stages of the Fishermen’s Trail are pretty much set here; there is hardly any access to the trail besides the start and finish point. It is also the busiest part of the Fishermen’s Trail. At least with hikers in the springtime.

That’s why I’d advise booking ahead both your accommodation and luggage transfer, if needed. I carried everything myself.

Bring plenty of water, as refills are hard to find. Check the opening hours of restaurants along the way if you rely on them for lunch and/or drinks.

Bring toilet paper/tissues, as a toilet break in nature is inevitable, but make sure to pack everything out. In some spots, it’s littered with used tissues, and that is really not a nice sight. Just dig a small hole, so your business and pack out the waste.

Get to the start: you can either take a bus from Lisbon to Sines or Porto Covo to start your hike. From Odeceixe, you can take Rede-Expressos buses back to Porto Covo or to Lisbon. Going further south to Albufeira is also an option.

Do you want to read more? Check out my posts about the next 5 hiking stages from Odeceixe to Sagres, and then from Sagres to Lagos here. Looking for all posts on the Fishermen’s Trail, click here.

Let me know if you have any specific questions or need help planning your own trip. If you thought this post was helpful or fun to read, let me know in the comment section below. Or share it with your friends or on social media! And make sure to come back for more travel stories next time.