Fishermen’s Trail – Portugal

In Spring 2025, I walked the Fishermen’s Trail in Portugal during one continuous journey, on my own. I walked from Praia do São Torpes (2 hours from Lisbon) in the Alentejo region to Lagos in the South of Portugal. I did this in 13 walking stages, and I’d like to share my own experiences, practical tips, and inspire you to explore the dramatic coastline of Portugal on your own.

For all blog posts, experiences, and more stories, check them out here: Fishermen’s Trail personal stories.

Note about the blog: I paid for everything in full myself. I was not paid or sponsored. All my opinions and experiences are my own.

Probe around the Globe does use affiliate links. If you decide to follow one of my links and make a purchase, I’ll earn a small commission. This is at no extra cost to you.

What is the Fishermen’s Trail?

The Fishermen’s Trail is a continuous, coastal hiking trail in the Southwest of Portugal. It connects two regions of Portugal: the Alentejo region and the Algarve. It is called Trilha dos Pescadores in Portuguese.

The trail is managed by the Rota Vicentina organisation. The Rota Vicentina has several trails in Portugal, like the Historical Way, a cultural, immersive hiking trail more inland. And of course, the coastal route, called the Fishermen’s Trail. Sometimes these routes overlap, intertwine, and run parallel.

On this page, I only discuss the Coastal Fishermen’s Trail and my experiences hiking this path.

How long is the Fishermen’s Trail?

The official Fishermen’s Trail starts at a beach, a few kilometers south of the town of Sines. It is called Praia do São Torpes. Or São Torpes Beach. It follows the coastline south, through the Alentejo region, to the Algarve and ends in Lagos at the train station.

This is 226,5 kilometers long (140.75 miles).

Most people start or finish in Porto Covo, 10 km south of Praia do São Torpes, and you can finish anywhere in Lagos.

When is the best time to walk the Fishermen’s Trail?

You can basically walk sections or the whole trail all year round.

Late winter/early spring can be very wet on the Portuguese west coast, but winter months in the southern Algarve region can be very mild compared to our northern European winters.

The only exemption would be July and August. During the summer months, it is really not advisable to walk the Fishermen’s Trail. Mainly because of the heat, the lack of shade, the long stages, and the busy beaches, and therefore a lack of accommodation. Of course, if you do decide to head out, avoid the hottest parts of the day, adjust your stages, walking speed, and gear. And have an alternative plan in case of heat stroke, sun stroke, or sunburns.

How to walk the Fishermen’s Trail?

The Fishermen’s Trail is a well-marked route, and you can walk it entirely on the green/blue markers along the coast. It is marked both north to south and south to north.

The paths are mostly narrow strips through dunes, beaches, and coastal rocks. The villages are connected by gravel or dirt roads, and occasionally, you walk a small bit on pavement.

Because the trail is well-marked, the stages are mostly set, the villages are well-connected, and services are widely available, you can easily organise your own hike. I walked solo (female) and felt 100% safe at all times.

From Praia do São Torpes (North) to Lagos (South)

Or from Porto Covo to Lagos. Either way, you start in the north and walk to the south of Portugal. It seems this is the preferred way for most people, and this is also the direction I took.

Pros of walking the Fishermen’s Trail North to South

• Most guidebooks go from North to South
• World maps show north to south, so for most people it feels more ‘natural’
• The stages in the north Alentejo region are more sandy, and there is less altitude difference. This way, you can ease into the more strenuous stages if you’re not used to mountains
• The wind mostly blows from a Northwest or North direction. You’ll have the wind in your back for most stages, a very welcome bonus with coastal winds of 5 or 6 Bf!
• The start point is only 2 hours by bus from Lisbon, and the finish is only 2 hours away from Faro airport
• In Spring, Summer, and Autumn, the sun is mostly directly above you, I was never blinded by the sunlight
• I found the Alentejo region cheaper than the southern Algarve. Saving some money in the beginning and splurging a bit more at the end
• I thought it was nice to end in vibrant and energetic Lagos

Cons of walking the Fishermen’s Trail North to South

• It can get very crowded on the trail, especially during longer weekends or holidays. It can feel at times like walking in a traffic jam.
• When you walk in winter or late autumn, or early spring, the sun can be more in your face and be a bit blinding if it sits low on the horizon

From Lagos (South) to Porto Covo or Sines (North)

As the trail is marked in both directions, you can easily walk from Lagos in the south, through the Algarve, up north to the Alentejo region, and finish in Porto Covo or Praia do São Torpes.

Pros of walking the Fishermen’s Trail South to North

• If you’re sensitive to sunlight, the sun is always on your side or your back. Make sure to put enough sunscreen on your neck!
• You start with the stages with more altitude difference and save the sandy walking for later stages

Cons of walking the Fishermen’s Trail South to North

• The wind. It is fierce and blows most days from the north. You’ll walk whole stages against the wind. It might be nice in the hottest months, but in the shoulder season, it can be icy cold.
• From the 3rd final stage (Zambujeiro do Mar) to the last (Porto Covo), you walk towards the industrial town of Sines. You see it on the horizon for the final 3 to 4 stages, which is not really a nice view on the horizon.
• Porto Covo is a really small town. Praia do São Torpes is an empty parking lot near the town of Sines. It feels anti-climactic to end there.

Sections of the trail or on day hikes

Of course, you can walk any section of the trail, as you like. Maybe you start with the first 4 stages and take a bus, and finish with the final 3 stages. That is all perfectly fine.

Or you don’t have that much time to do everything in one go, and you do some sections one year, and come back a decade later to finish the rest of the trail.

This is all entirely up to you, your time, your energy, your budget, and your preferences. Whatever you do, make it your own hike, don’t let other people dictate what to do, and most importantly: ENJOY!

Standard Fishermen’s Trail stages (13 sections)

The Rota Vicentina website gives you 13 stages for the Fishermen’s Trail. Of course, you can deviate from them as you like, but there are not always options to cut inland or arrange a pick-up transfer. Because of this, most people follow the set stages, with some exceptions here and there.

I listed them briefly below, and you can click on the link (if available) to read my full description of this section of the Fishermen’s Trail

1. Praia do São Torpes to Porto Covo – 10.2 km (most people opt to skip this part)
2. Porto Covo to Vila Nova de Milfontes – 19.6 km (almost 100% sand)
3. Vila Nova de Milfontes to Almograve – 14.7 km (but can be shortened by 4 km if you take the ferry)
4. Almograve to Zambujeiro do Mar – 21.5 km
5. Zambujeiro do Mar to Odeceixe – 18.9 km
6. Odeceixe to Aljezur – 22.6 km (you leave the Alentejo and continue into the Algarve)
7. Aljezur to Arrifana – 17.1 km
8. Arrifana to Carrapateira – 19.4 km
9. Carrapateira to Vila do Bispo – 15.3 km, but it felt infinitely longer
10. Vila do Bispo to Sagres (via Cabo de São Vicente) – 20.2 km
11. Sagres to Salema – 19.5 km (the toughest section with the most altitude difference)
12. Salema to Luz – 11.5 km
13. Luz to Lagos – 10.9 km

What you need to know before hiking the Fishermen’s Trail

1. The Fishermen’s Trail is not a camino
2. Book ahead! As far as possible
3. Leave no trace – not even paper tissues
4. The Fishermen’s Trail is not difficult, but it can be tough, so come prepared
5. I felt 100% safe as a solo female hiker

The above points are very top-level and generic. I’ll elaborate a bit more in a separate post, which you can read here.

Where to stay on the Fishermen’s Trail

If you plan to arrange your own hike along the Fishermen’s Trail, you’ll need to book accommodation and places to stay along the trail. My top tip is: book as far ahead as possible.

Why? Here’s why:

• Booking early gives you the best options at the most affordable rates.
• Rates go up on popular holiday weekends, and as the dates approach
• You basically walk from town to town. There isn’t much in between, so deciding on the day how far you want to walk isn’t really feasible
• You don’t have to arrange a place to stay when you arrive, tired and sweaty from a full day of walking
• The towns are popular with holidaymakers, surfers, and hikers
• Some of the villages are very small, and the number of beds is just limited (Almograve, Carrapateira, and Salema)
• All you have to do is eat, sleep, walk, repeat, and don’t think about any logistics or arrangements.

I started looking at accommodations in December, as I would be walking during the popular Easter and 1 May weekends. Some places did not have availability yet, but I do feel I got the best options at the best price!

The Alentejo and Algarve regions are scattered with places to stay, so you might feel a bit overwhelmed with the sheer number of options. I break it down into a few groups below. But for a full, comprehensive guide on all the accommodation options, read my accommodation guide here.

Camping on the Fishermen’s Trail

Wild camping is officially illegal in Portugal, so pitching your tent on the trail or in any of the national parks is illegal. It is also enforced, and fines are steep.

This doesn’t mean you cannot bring your tent and sleeping gear and camp out at some of the designated overnight camping grounds and campsites along the Fishermen’s Trail.

Hostels and dorms on the Fishermen’s Trail

Many of the towns along the Fishermen’s Trail have official hostels, accommodation with shared rooms, and the like. They can be a great hangout if you’re traveling solo and often offer great services like laundry, breakfast, and fun activities.

My hostel days are long behind me, but I did stay at one hostel in Porto Covo, because it was the only ‘affordable’ option in town as a solo traveler. I booked a 4-bed dorm room, and because of the Easter weekend, it was €60 per night. Insane if you think that the next day, I had a lovely double room ensuite, all for myself for €50!

What I’m trying to say is that if you’re traveling as a couple or duo, it might be more economical to look elsewhere than the hostels and dorms.

B&Bs – hotels and apartments on the Fishermen’s Trail

I stayed at a bunch of B&Bs, in a few hotels, and even had an apartment to myself, or shared facilities on a number of occasions. The hotels are mostly used by the bigger tour companies that run guided hikes along the Fishermen’s Trail.

But the smaller accommodations are usually locally run, family-owned, small establishments that offer great value for money. They usually only offer a few rooms, so they book up quickly. Make sure to read the fine print if you’re sharing a bathroom or not, if that is important to you.

If money is no issue for you, you’ll have no problem finding rental villas for 1 or 2 nights, with an infinity pool, a jacuzzi, and an indoor cinema. They are in popular demand for the summer months, but in the off-season, you might be able to snatch a night of luxury after a long day of hiking.

My list of stays on the Fishermen’s Trail

To make things super easy for you, here is a list of all the places I’ve stayed at along the Fishermen’s Trail. Just follow the link and book if available.

I’ll provide more background information and alternatives in a separate post about accommodation on the Fishermen’s Trail. You can read it here.

• MUTE Hostel in Porto Covo – 4-bed dorm, breakfast, and swimming pool, right on the trail
• BLUE GUIDE Milfontes in Vila Nova de Milfontes – double bed, ensuite, central in the village, and lovely breakfast
• Refúgio do Almograve in Almograve – double bedroom with shared bathroom (1 other room) and kitchen, free to do laundry
• Sunset Beach House in Zambujeiro do Mar – on the trail, at the beach, private bedroom, shared luxury house with 3 other rooms
• Apartamentos Cavaco in Odexeice – private apartment with kitchen on the trail in the center of the village
• Vicentina Hotel in Aljezur – a typical hotel, a little bit off the trail in Aljezur. The popular alternative is the Amazigh Hostel & Suites.
• Hotel Vale Da Telha in Aljezur/Arrifana. Off-trail, about 2 km from Arrifana beach. Great breakfast, swimming pool, and big rooms.
• Carrapateira Lodge in Carrapateira. Private rooms with en-suite or shared bathroom. Shared kitchen.
• Lilas’ Private Accommodation in Vila do Bispo. Private rooms with private or shared bathrooms. Shared kitchen and washing machine.
• Tonel Apartamentos Turisticos in Sagres. Private rooms or apartments. Swimming pool. Nothing wrong with it, but I think you can do better.
• Apartamentos Salema Praia Club in Salema. On the trail, spacious apartments. Swimming pool. A bit outdated. A very popular alternative is Salema Eco Camp – Sustainable Camping & Glamping, which is 3 km up a steep hill off-trail.
• Vilamar in Luz. Big spacious hotel rooms, swimming pool. Great value for money, but not in town.
• Charming Residence & Guest House Dom Manuel I Adults only in Lagos. Amazing place, way more expensive than anything else on the list, but this oasis of calm was my (expensive) treat at the end of the trail. 100% worth it, if not for the breakfast alone. But Lagos is bursting at the seams with affordable (and expensive) accommodation, so you can always find something.

What to pack when you hike the Fishermen’s Trail

Luggage transfers are very popular on the Fishermen’s Trail, but as with everything, places are limited and they book up quickly, so book ahead.

If you’re hauling around your own luggage, as I always do, the credo is always: less is more.

That is especially valid on the sandy sections of the Fishermen’s Trail, as you easily sink away in the soft sands. Less weight means less sinking and easier walking.

I’ll provide you with a full packing list of everything I took (and used) for the Fishermen’s Trail, in a separate post. You can read it here [coming soon].

But I’ll list a few key items below:

• Bring a good hiking backpack. Both as a day pack if you use luggage transfer, and as your hiking pack. I saw numerous people with their jackets and sweaters, and food bags dangling from the top and sides. I understand many people fly carry-on only, but make sure everything fits in your pack, even if you buy extra food or peel off a layer of clothes
• Hiking sticks or trekking poles. I loved them and found them invaluable in the soft sand. They help you stabilize in the soft sand (especially when carrying a heavy pack), and they helped me with the ascents and descents. You can manage with one, but two is better for balance. You can use foldable sticks or retractable sticks that you can bring in your carry-on. On this stretch, I highly recommend walking sticks or hiking poles. Some parts were particularly steep, and I used them a lot.
• Yes or no on the (sand) gaiters to prevent sand from getting into your shoes? If you wear long trousers, you don’t need them. If you have closed (no mesh) hiking boots or trail runners, you might need them. I have meshed upper trail running shoes, and even with gaiters, the sand gets in from the top of the shoe. Sand getting in via the socks wasn’t an issue for me, as my shoes really fit my ankles.
• Sun protection like a hat, buff, and sunscreen. Suncream is expensive to buy in Portugal, so better to bring your own. Make sure to have it at hand when you’re walking so you can easily reapply during the day (don’t forget your neck and ears!). A hat protects you from the sun and sunstroke.
• A water bladder, or easily accessible water bottle. I saw many people having to stop, take off their packs, to access their water. I love the water bladder as it allows me to sip, hands-free, on any given day during the hike. I also brought a light-weight Hydro Flask filled with lemonade, so I still had a cold drink at the end of the hike!

How to prepare for your own Fishermen’s Trail hike

As you’ve read from the above, it isn’t difficult to arrange your own hike along the Fishermen’s Trail. But it does require some preparations, which I hope I was able to provide. If you want more information, like to read more, see below list of practical tips.

Useful links about the Fishermen’s Trail

• The official website of the Rota Vicentina organisation. It is in several languages and offers stages, natural background information, and elevation profiles.
• Check out the Rede Expressos and Vamus website to look up bus connections and transport options.
• Use RometoRio for finding connections to and from Portugal and in Portugal
• I always book ahead and use booking.com
• Pick up a guidebook, like the Cicerone Guidebook for the Fishermen’s Trail from Porto Covo to Sagres
• Check my personal day-by-day stories and more posts about the Fishermen’s Trail

Fishermen’s Trail as part of the E9

Did you know the Fishermen’s Trail is actually part of the longer ‘long distance hiking trail’ in Europe? The E9 is one of those long distance hiking routes in Europe that runs from Cabo St.Vicente in Portugal, along the coast to the rest of Portugal, Northern Spain, Western France, Belgium and the Netherlands, across Germany, Poland, Lithuania, Latvia and finally finishes in Estonia. The E9 is part of my bigger ‘hiking Europe’ plan.

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